Ice axes

When you go climbing mountains, you'll have to deal with not only the choice of clothing, but also technical climbing equipment. Crampons, picks, belts, carabiners... all this new information will probably be overwhelming at first.

This page is your lifeline in this case. We will briefly summarize all the basics regarding the different equipment elements - what options exist and how to choose the most suitable one for you.

First, find out what equipment you need for your specific adventure. The choice of equipment depends primarily on the route/mountain you choose, and you don't need to carry an armada of technical equipment everywhere.

Pickaxe types

The pickaxe is not needed for mining in this context, but rather as a tool for moving on a glacier or icy slope. It is also an important aid if you happen to slip on such ground and need to maintain your momentum.

There are different types of picks. Which one you need depends primarily on how steep the slope you are on. Essentially, the more curved the handle of the pick, the more technical and steeper the slope it is designed for.

Straight-handled picks. Picks with a straight shaft are designed for moving on a fairly flat glacier. Their straight shaft makes it somewhat more difficult and possibly more painful to stop yourself if you slip on a steep slope (because the shovel part of the pick can crush the collarbone). On the other hand, a pick with a straight shaft is better used for techniques where you need to push the pick directly into the snow, or as a “walking stick”. As a subcategory, very short and light picks, which are used e.g. ski mountaineering's and rather for special purposes (e.g. Petzl Gully).

  • Suitable for, for example, regular routes on mountains: Elbrus, Aconcagua, Lenin, Denali.

  • Examples of models: Petzl Glacier, Simond Ocelot, Black Diamond Raven.

Curved-handled picks. A slightly more technical pick has a slightly curved shaft. The blade is also generally somewhat more aggressive, i.e. at a higher angle. These features ensure more ergonomic use and safer self-braking, and allow the pick to be used in an ice pick style in lighter conditions (holding the pick not by the head, but by the shaft underneath). These picks are the ideal choice if you are going to climb easier routes with slopes below 40°.

Ice picks. The most technical option is the ice pick. These are specifically designed for ice climbing or very steep slopes (slopes greater than 45°). The handle of an ice pick is very curved and short (generally one-size), the blade is more aggressive and is held in the hand mostly by the lower end of the shaft, where a special handle is also installed for this purpose. Ice picks are used in pairs, one of which usually has a hammer on the opposite side of the blade and the other has a shovel-like tip.

  • Suitable for ice climbing and technical mountains (difficulty level AD or higher).

  • Examples of models: Petzl Quark II, Petzl Nomic, Grivel Tech Machine.


How to choose a pick of the right length?

Excluding ice picks, determining the appropriate length of a pick goes like this:

  1. Stand straight, heels on the ground, arms at your sides

  2. Measure the length from the palm of your hand to the top of your ankle.

  3. The resulting length is the ideal pick length for you (+/- 5cm).

If you can't get a pickaxe of the right length, it won't matter if it's a little longer or shorter. Simply leaning on it while walking and braking yourself can be somewhat more uncomfortable. Nowadays, the trend in the Alps is towards shorter and lighter picks.


Additives on the pickaxe

In addition to the pick being the right length and shape, it should also be attached to you in some way. You don't want to lose it in the mountains and throw your summit plans in the trash...

Many picks are given away from the store arm loop, which solves this problem. However, it is not the safest or most comfortable option. Hand straps usually can withstand a maximum weight of 100 kilograms - so if you happen to get caught in the pickaxe while sliding down a hill, your hand strap may break. Secondly - since the pickaxe must always be in the hand on the slope, it is extremely annoying and time-consuming when moving on serpentines if you need to take a break every few dozen meters to take the hand strap from one wrist and put it around the other wrist.

It is much safer and more convenient to attach the pick directly to your belt. You can use a special system (e.g. Grivel Easy Slider) or a sling with a carabiner. The sling should be about 90-100 cm and long ones 100-120 cmIt is important that the tip of the pick reaches the ground, but at the same time, the sling is not too long and gets stuck behind your knee.

In addition, it is wise to purchase blade guard, because picks are still knives. There are different types, but the simplest and cheapest option is rubber nozzle.